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| I believe in magic |
After what must have been the flattest and calmest summer on record it’s nice to finally have an endless spell of waves. All of this, of course, was due to a change in atmospheric patterns. But this particular change of pattern came from a higher influence. Tom. It is a well known fact that when Tom comes down, there are waves. I don’t know how he does it but he does it- and when confronted about it he just smiles and says ‘yeah I know’. Seriously now, it was predicted to be flat following Hurricane Irene the weekend prior. The best waves from Irene were supposed to be on Sunday and Monday, and then it was going to be flat all week. Tom was scheduled to come down on Tuesday.
I called him with the sour news about five days before his expected arrival, “Hmm. Looks like it’s going to be flat all week. You’re kind of going to miss it by a day”. Tom was totally not phased by what I said. He replied in his calm tone. “I’m not worried about it. They’ll be waves, it happens every time. I’ll be down on Wednesday and we’ll surf.” I woke up Tuesday and there was still 4ft swell rolling in. Same on Wednesday. Thursday was 2-4ft, fun, glassy and ripable. Friday was a little bigger, 3-4ft, choppy, but had nice sections. Saturday morning was overhead- the best day of the summer other than Irene! Sunday was still chest high. Monday still had some waves but we didn’t need them. On Tuesday swell began to fill in from Katia . . . And as I write this on Wednesday evening it is overhead and I can hear the waves breaking across the street . . . Thanks Tom!
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| The master himself draws a crisp line. I live here all year and forgot about surfing this summer. Tom comes down for his weekend and within minutes is on a wave like this. |
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| Seriously. This stuff is no joke. Overhead on Saturday! |
We had a fun and complete weekend out in the water and on the land too. Todd the Legend, Dennis, and Victor were down the shore and got in on the surf action. ‘Where the hell were the waves this summer bro?’ Buried in sand and endless sunshine. At least we got to ride together this weekend, and everyone had a good time surfing and hanging out.
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| Will about to enjoy some peace and quiet before school begins |
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| Victor was spotted tapping into the power |
Now that I don’t dread going back to school anymore, I really get to appreciate the beauty that lies in Labor Day Weekend. I now get to celebrate this weekend for what it really is- the beginning of fall. The air is beginning to cool down, the swells are getting better, and the water is still warm. And in only a month or so the fish will start. It is like every thing goes off at once. Hurricane Katia is offshore and pumping us some swell, Tropical Storm Maria has formed and has a chance of making the curve north, and eventually when it cools down a little in Canada we’ll get an extratropical storm. Hopefully in a month or so that will all be intertwined with the first signs of the fall fishing madness. Maybe they’ll be some good fluke action in the meantime if the surf decides to go flat. Aside from sleeping, everything now is a win-win!
Welcome to Fall . . .
Wait. Summer did have some nice highlights and Will captured them in a video he produced. All of the music is written by us, jamming on the porch at night, so that’s why it sounds that way.
Welcome to Fall . . .
Wait. Summer did have some nice highlights and Will captured them in a video he produced. All of the music is written by us, jamming on the porch at night, so that’s why it sounds that way.
