On Saturday morning I reached the new level. It came with four hours of light fog, light winds, 4-6ft reeling peaks- and miraculously only two other guys out. The rides and the paddle out were so long I almost never stopped moving. I had every wave I wanted with no competition. But after a couple hours, I just sat there for a moment. The sky was gray with low clouds and fog, but the wind was light and the water was glassy. The ocean was cool, though was refreshing.
I let a set go by and watched from behind as the waves peeled over the reef with no one on them. I looked back at our house across the road. I scanned all the way west, out to sea, and over to the east. I saw no one. I was all alone in a sea of perfect waves. And then I got it. The chills came over me a little as I watched the next set gathering on the reef, just for me. I didn't move as the waves felt the bottom and formed up into a perfect peak right in front of me. I looked to my right and left and there was no one there. I turned around and began the paddle into another perfect six foot wave. What a trip.
